It’s been nearly half a century since Tom and Mary Ellen Power first opened shop in Williamsburg. After decades in business, the owners of The Cheese Shop and Fat Canary say one thing has remained constant — the students.
In the past 45 years, the Powers have employed more than 500 students from College of William & Mary at their Merchants Square establishments. The couple claims the budding scholars have played an integral role in their success.
“A lot of students have worked for us through the years, and still do,” Tom said. “They have been wonderful employees. They are smart, industrious, and always willing to help.”
The Powers first operated a small cheese shop in Newport News in 1971. Tom was a month away from his 36th birthday. Mary Ellen was 31.
In 1973, the couple opened a second shop along Prince George Street in Williamsburg a few years later with the hopes of attracting college students with the smell of freshly-baked bread.
Sandwiches were soon added to the menu, along with Mary Ellen’s famous house dressing, which she concocted using a recipe from her grandmother.
The pair also co-owned The Trellis Restaurant in Merchants Square before relocating The Cheese Shop to Duke of Gloucester Street. Fat Canary, a fine dining restaurant, opened in 2003 and has won AAA’s Four Diamond Award every year since. Their family operation also includes a wine store below The Cheese Shop.
On May 16, Mary Ellen, who recently turned 77, and her 81-year-old husband, were awarded the college’s prestigious Prentis Award. The Prentis Award is presented annually to individuals in the Williamsburg community for their strong civic involvement and support of the college.
The award is named after an 18th century business owner named William Prentis who had a profound impact on the College of William & Mary.
“It was quite a surprise, and quite an occasion for us,” said Mary Ellen. “It’s a beautiful thing to be a part of. I’ve always loved the college, but I’ve never had the feeling I have now.”
After years in the business, the Powers are now at the stage where multiple generations of students have come through their doors. One student, who graduated earlier in May, turned out to be the son of a former employee who also worked at The Cheese Shop during her time at the college.
“He was a fine employee and a good student,” said Tom. “It’s also a good feeling that his mother thought well enough of us that she also wanted her son to work here with us.”
Mary Ellen recalled the time another student suggested that she and her husband start selling bread ends while helping Mary Ellen slice bread for sandwiches one afternoon. The bread ends, along with the house dressing, are among The Cheese Shop’s best sellers.
“She would take the bread ends back to the dorms at the end of the day for her friends,” Mary Ellen said. “It’s nice when the employees come back to visit us. We have a very family-friendly feeling here.”
Current employees agree. Linda Music has been working at Fat Canary for 14 years.
“I can’t think of two more deserving people of The Prentis Award than the Powers,” she said. “They are fair and hardworking themselves, and set a good example for their employees. They are always bringing fresh and new ideas to the restaurant. I feel so lucky to have their great influence. They are amazing people.”
The Powers concur that it’s the customers that have made it all worthwhile. Their customer base is not only those affiliated with the college, but locals and tourists as well.
“We have had people come in here from all over the world,” Tom said. “I love this business because of the immediate satisfaction. You can see that the people are pleased with what they are buying. You can see it on their faces and know how they are feeling, even if they don’t say anything.”
“We also have people who come in here two or three times a week,” Mary Ellen added. “We see them and get to know them, and they get to know us. It’s been fun and exciting.”
The Powers, who were inducted into the National Association of Specialty Food Hall of Fame in 2016, are still involved with the business, but have slowly given over the reins to their three children: Thomas Power, Cathy Power Pattisall, and Mary Ellen Power Rogers.
Their son is the executive chef of Fat Canary while their daughters oversee business operations.
“All of our kids have strong work ethics, and working with them has been terrific,” said Mary Ellen. “We have been very fortunate.”
Read more profiles of local residents in WYDaily’s section In Our Hometown.
